Funchal, a Favourite Trans-Atlantic Cruise Port
Planning an Independent Day Ashore in Madeira’s Historic Capital
Apr 28, 2009
It’s certainly true that cruise excursions can be particularly helpful for first-time cruisers where language is a problem, time is limited or the terminal is a long way from the nearest attractions. But Funchal is the kind of place which positively encourages, not just seasoned cruisers, but anyone eager to try a more personalized experience.
Madeira’s capital and main port is set in a dramatic natural amphitheatre (the remains of an ancient volcanic crater) with its fertile slopes furrowed by deep forested gullies. Most buildings are white with red tiled roofs, so their slow creep up the hillsides hasn’t spoilt the wonderful view. Some of the attractions require a bit of uphill walking, but there is still plenty to see on the flatter ground near the harbour.
Large cruise ships now dock on the Molhe da Pontinha which juts out into the Funchal’s impressive bay for over half a mile, or about one kilometre. The ship’s berth determines walking time into town, and it may save time and leg work to get a taxi (approximately 10 minutes) into the centre.
Why ‘Going It Alone’ in Funchal is Easy
- Strolling along the main east-west boulevards has the civilised, unrushed feel of an historic market town or a small Mediterranean port.
- Centuries-old, very cordial connections with Britain and America have ensured that English is widely understood.
- One legacy of Portuguese rule is traditional good manners. Pestering touts are rare, and the town is considered very safe (although the usual sensible precautions should be taken).
- Although Madeira is still part of Portugal, prices in tourist areas are often marked in US dollars as well as in Euros.
- Streets and places are well marked, maps readily available and hop-on-hop-off tourist buses cheap and simple to use.
Walking Funchal’s Historic Centre
Start with the Avenida das Comunidades Madeirenses, the main palm-lined beachfront for the Marina, sea views, outdoor cafes and restaurants. Its pleasant seaside resort atmosphere is more 20th than 21st century, and is refreshingly free of ‘tat’. Along it, among other stately buildings and grand hotels, are the 16th century Palace of Sao Lourenco and the Old Customs House, now the regional parliament building.
- Avenida Arriaga is Funchal’s main shopping street. Go west along it for Blundy’s Wine Lodge (fine Madeira wine tasting), other speciality outlets, good restaurants and the Marine Shopping Centre. Then cool off with a drink in the lush, shady, City Gardens.
- East along the Avenida Arriaga is the Marcado dos Lavradores, with its costumed fruit and flower sellers. Daily, but especially interesting on Fridays.
- Walk off a delicious fish lunch with a stiff hike past the Natural History Museum up to the Convent of Santa Clara (1496). Once an enclosed convent, this is now a delightful showcase of traditional religious art, with a charming garden. The views here are magnificent.
- To avoid steep climbs, take the cable car to the hill station of Monte, once a fashionable resort for wintering European aristocracy, and ride down again on a guided wickerwork toboggan if you dare.
After all that, you’ll probably need a taxi back to the ship. There’s little chance of getting lost, as the ship will have been in sight most of the day, and drivers know exactly where to find it!
More about Madeira Shopping and Funchal Halfday Excursion
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